My Shop Truck, a.k.a. Pop's "Old Gray"

1994 Dodge 2500HD 4x4

360 cu in (5.9 L) Magnum V8 - 230 hp/325 lb.ft.
4-speed A518(46RH) Torqueflite Automatic Transmission
Dana 60's Front & Rear, 3.54F/3.55R
1.5" Rear Lift & 2.5" Front Leveling Kit
37x12.50r17 B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain T/A's
Mile Marker 12,000# Winch

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		Here is the truck as I picked it up from the farm.  It has 345,xxx miles on it and starts up every time you hit the key.  There is some noise in the front end, the tires are shoot, there is also an exhaust noise and some rust and body damage.  The AC is not currently working but had worked great in the past, likely a freon leak.  The AC controls is missing a couple of knobs as well.  The seats and floor covering as well as the headliner are toast.  The brake lights quite working, but the turn signals and 3rd brake light work.
		Pulled out the floor covering and old seats and shoveled the dirt out of the floor before installing a good set of seats, all though they are tan rather than gray.
		Picked up a set of new 17" steel wheels to mount the 37" BFG's I had on hand.  They fit the truck nicely with a little fender clearance issue at the rear of the front fenders when turning.
		To address the front end noise, steering issues and tire clearances I proceeded to install a 2.5" leveling kit as well as a set of RUKSE  Heavy Duty Adjustable Control Arms.  These control arms will allow me to move the axle forward to maintain the proper wheelbase/suspension component alignment with the leveling kit as we  as give be the fender clearance.  I also replaced the shocks and upper and lower ball joints as well as sway bar links and bushings.
		I've installed new brake pads, pistons and calipers as well as a complete brake system flush.  I've also replaced a leaking rear axle seal and started the body repairs.  The interior trim panels are all removed and cleaned and I'm awaiting some new fabric for the headliners and working speakers.
		Installed a new cover on the headliner and a new carpet.  I also cleaned all the interior trim panels and re-installed them along with new/additional speakers and an aftermarket radio.
		I recycled and repaired the Mile Marker 12K that was my Trailer Recovery Winch and installed it. Still a few finishing details, and it won't be completely installed until I pull the bumper for painting and add a weld or two on where I had to widen and extend the frame rails. Next comes the sanding, filling, sanding, repeat and finally paint.
		Since David had removed the old plastic bed protector that had been in the truck since it was new, I found the rust was a little worse than expected in some areas, and not as bad as was feared in others. So I cleaned and rust protected the Bed as well as lining it with Bed Liner (Raptor by U-Pol). I did sand the tailgate down to metal and re-prime it with Epoxy Primer.   2016-11-06
		After diagnosing and gutting the old electronics from the Mile Marker Winch control, leaving only the solenoids, I connected a Harbor Freight wireless controller to make it operable. I also found I had broke one of the terminal leads for the field in the motor and had to remove it and have it fixed. I was then able to finish connect and test the winch, and all works well. I also had to replace the Power Steering pump, as the one I'd installed earlier had started leaking. While I was at it it also got all new hoses. Changed the oil and filter now that it had 4K miles since the last change.  2016-11-07
		The 4WD CAD is now operatable from inside the Cab.  I added a manual vacuum valve to the inside of the cab to operate it.  Now I can have both 2WD and 4WD low range, oh and not have to crawl under the truck to engage/disengauge the axle.  You can also see the power switch to supply power to the front mounted winch.  With the help of some heat and a candle I was finally able to remove the old (now throwing codes) O2 Sensor and replace it.  2016-11-08
		I found that the sway bar link at ride height and front end compression was hitting the coil spring axle pocket. Now with the Sway bar drop kit installed thought that it was fixed, but it showed the real problem. I thought at first it was just the Moog Link Grease Zerk hitting the steering link, but even replacing it with a smaller zerk, that was not going to prevent the link and tie rod from hitting on compression and/or turns. So the solution? Remove the drop brackets I'd installed and return the sway bar back to it's stock location and flip the sway bar links to rotate the sway bar up and move the links away from any suspension/steering items. Now no more interference and they clear the tires/springs etc...  2016-11-11

Time for Paint

		Before you say it, Yes I know I should paint the whole truck all at once. But not knowing the other Projects Schedules I'm going to paint sections as I can. So I'm starting with the Front Hood and Fenders. So I first I took off the front tires to lower the truck a little and then cleaned the hood and fenders very well with some paint thinner, then some Prep-Sol to be sure all the grease, wax, etc... was all gone. Next came all the sanding and another Prep-Sol cleaning. Boy do I wish I'd already ordered the new orbital sander, but I made my old one work, as well as some hand sanding. WOW, the amount of rust that was under the layer of primer that had been sprayed on the truck before I got it was a lot. It was all surface rust, but man was there a lot. Basically everywhere you see bare metal was some rust. Next comes the masking off, then spot priming, sanding filler, more sanding, sealer then base coat, then finally the clear coat. So we should know in a few days how the color selection and painting process goes. 2017-11-27
		After my good spray gun shot craps, I picked up a cheap one and have been using it for primer. Well, that cheap gun is a piece of crap. Poor spray pattern with lots of banding. I've got a high-quality gun (on loan) for base and clear coats, but I've got to get a good primer gun. After some more sanding and better blending the edges I again cleaned the surface, masked everything off and then started the Epoxy Primer and high build sanding filler. Next some sanding and see if it's ready for paint. 2017-11-28
		Got the high build fillers all sanded down clean and smooth.  Next comes Paint and Clear. 2017-11-29
		Well, I Sealed, Base Coated and Cleared the Hood and Front Fenders. It's a 30 footer, man do I need a spray booth and wristbands. Too much dust in the final clear and some sweat came out of my gloves and onto the clear. Oh and yea one area of a run. For now, it will do. I'll sand the clear and re-clear it when I do the Cab and Doors. I like the color and am happy with it, just not with results of some dust and a little moister. Oh, and by the way the 3M PPS system Rocks! 2017-12-01
		Got the new replacement grille prepped, painted and clear coated. 2017-12-05
		So I decided that rather than just sand and re-clearcoat the Hood, I'd go ahead and Wet Sand, the Buff, and Polish. I'm not the best and Buffing and Polishing but all in all, it came out good enough to not have to re-clear the hood. With the color matched new grill the front of the truck is looking good so next will be the work on the cab and doors to get them painted. In the last two pictures, you can see the wet sanding, buffing and polishing results. In the first of the two, the left is as it was sprayed and the right after the wet sanding polishing and bussing. The last picture is when the entire hood was complete. You can see how much cleaner and clearer the hood is on the left side. 2017-12-06
		Most of the Cab sanding is done. I've got a few small spots to touch up, a little more masking and re-masking and then a good wipe down before I apply the Epoxy Primer, filler and then some high build sanding filler before final sanding. 2017-12-10
		Well, "Old Gray" has now had the Cab and Doors Primed and the High Build Filler Sprayed. Next, a guide coat and a lot of sanding. 2017-12-11
		The Cab and Doors are now ready for Sealer, Base, and Clear Coat and hopefully no wet sanding and buffing. Yea, I know it's not a lot of surface area, but a full day of sanding is done. Spending all day in a respirator and headphones isn't fun, but at least I was dry and warm. The reason for the paint job is so the truck will last another 24 years, nothing fancy nor perfect but clean and well protected. Don't look too close as the surface isn't perfectly "flat" but it is smooth, ready for paint and meets my needs and purpose. So, in other words, I found a few dents/low spots I wasn't aware of. 2017-12-13
		Well, the Cab is Sealed, Based, and Cleared. Next re-mask and tackle the Doors. 2017-12-14
		Well, the Cab and Doors are completed. Came out pretty good, no runs and less dust than I had on the hood. NExt time the Bed gets it's attention, then at a later date the bumpers. 2017-12-15
		Started preparing the bed for paint.  Lots of sanding to come before paint. 2018-01-11
		Well time for some primer, filler and more sanding. 2018-01-12
		Filling, sanding, repeating and taping. Next comes primer and high build before sealing and painting. 2018-01-15
		Well, the Bed and Tailgate are Primed, High Build Primed, and Guide Coated. Now the long lonely part of sanding. 2018-01-17
		Well, this is taking longer than expected. And is certainly not the fun part of the job. The job is coming along nicely. I know it's not a show truck job, but should be a good clean finish. I'm going to use this truck, not show it. Took all afternoon to do the one fender, and I still have one more to go. And no there is not a lot of fingerprints left on my fingertips. Then it hopefully is time for the sealer, paint and clear. 2018-01-19
		Well, another 4 hrs of sanding and the bed is now ready for the painting process. What sucks is the fine dust wrecks havoc with my sinus cold even wearing a respirator. Not to mention the mess it makes in the shop. 2018-01-21
		Old Gray is all one color of Gray again! The weather worked out great, warmer and the shop's humidity made it all the way up to mid 30's rather than the 15% it had been hovering around. The warmer outside temperatures also allowed me to air out the shop without allowing super cold air in as well. Before you comment about the verticle dent near the front upper portion of the bed, yes it's there on both sides. Looks to be factory stamping issues (I also didn't notice it until the high fill sanding). As the truck is my "Shop" truck and it is not painted to be or intended to be a show truck, the imperfection's is a non-issue for me. I'm very happy to get it all one clean color and ready to last another 24 years and 350,000 miles. Once the warmer weather is here for a long enough period I will prep and spray the bed liner on the bump strip body detail, bumpers and the lower rolled under portion of the body. Today's work was to wipe everything down again, spray sealer, base coat and then clear. Everything worked out well, and it was all done in less than 6 hours. Two coats of base, and three coats of clear. Once the new tail lights arrive (SLOW shipper, should have already been here) I'll get them painted and on the truck. Now to order a replacement rear bumper. 2018-01-22
		Spent some time West Sanding, Buffing and Polishing the tailgate. Since I painting it laying flat it got more dust in it than I liked (without a paint boot and proper ventilation). So I first Wet Sanded the specks out before Wet Sanding most of the panel to flatten out the orange peel. Then I Buffed it before polishing it. Not perfect, but much nicer and a LOT smoother than it was. You can see the reflection in the 5th picture, not looking to shabby. I also installed the old bumper for now as I still need to get a new one before spraying the bed liner, and I installed the tailgate. Now waiting on the new taillights to arrive. 2018-01-23
		Well, Old Gray is getting closer to being done with her Paint Job. I still need to get a new Rear Bumper and paint the front one. I also, when weather supports, need to spray the lower part of the Body with Bed Liner. I've also got some more wet sanding, buffing and polishing to do as well. 2018-01-26